Friday, December 14, 2012

Tulum Again

The last day at Sandos is generally a little disgruntling for me, as it is usually been only a week in the sun, and meant going right back to work. But this time, I had been there two weeks and was ready to get back on the road. Notwithstanding there was still a full morning to take advantage of the perks on site, so a bit more ocean and buffet, before cleaning up and packing up and dropping off a few tips to key staff.

The final ten days of my trip are going to be based back in Belize. From my efforts in November there is one real opportunity for purchase of a bar on the beach, in San Pedro, and I have put together a long list of questions for discussion with the current owner. Noting is likely to happen before getting home at Christmas, but at least I will leave with everything needed to make a decision. Will scout out living accommodations, local stores, tax structure, etc. Then it will be gut check time.

So Wednesday at noon, I headed to the bus stop to take the first bus heading south, and as it was not possible to make the 3:00 pm water taxi in Chetumal, I would stay wherever it was going. That just happened to be Tulum, which suited me fine as after the visit there two weeks ago, it was easy to find my way around.

This time I decided to check into a different place, and tried out the Chilam Balam Hotel. It is located right on the main road, right beside the Mot Mot Dive Shop. The seƱorita at the front desk showed me the room, it was basic, neat and clean, had TV and wireless with ceramic tile throughout. For 350 pesos, around $28, it was a bargain and I took the deal. If there was anything negative to say about the room, it was the water pressure in the shower, but that is pretty constant throughout this part of the world. I will give this place a good recommendation on trip advisor, and would not hesitate to stay here next time in Tulum. Even for budget travelers, this would be a great find if you were traveling with a friend as you could stay pretty much for the price of a hostel by splitting the costs.

There are lots of other options available in Tulum, from bed and breakfasts, to hostels, to a series of budget hotels. There were quite a few people driving around town on bikes that advertised Hostel Lobo Tulum, where for $10 US per day you get a bed, breakfast and a bike rental. No idea what the accommodations are like, but that is a deal in anyone's books.

After check in, not having eaten since breakfast, the first order of the day was finding a place to eat and grab a beer. Remembering from the last trip there was a funky little bar down the street near the Ado bus station, off I went. Also by the bus stop is the Weary Traveler hostel, so the area was full of young travelers, and it looked like something right out of the movies. The one called The Beach with Leo Dicaprio jumped to mind, with the long hair, beards, dreadlocks, flower girls with tattoos..you name it. Have to say I admire the young people I have met on this trip, and can only think how nice it would have been to have done the same in my twenties. Oh well, nothing wrong with being fifty something and starting.

The restaurant was as I remembered, small, brightly decorated with a cool bar. If the food was as good as the ambience, then a treat was in store. After a thorough review of the menu, I did what I normally do, and ordered the flank steak tacos. And delicious they were. Nice ambiance, ice cold beer and good food. Now that I was suitably fed and watered, it was back to the Chilam to watch some Netflix on the iPad, and get an early sleep for the travel to Belize the next day.

The water taxi leaves from Chetumal at 3 pm, and the bus from Tulum takes about three and a half hours to get there, so the 10:30 bus gives plenty of time. After checking out and heading to the Ado station around 10, walking by a cafe I noticed my friend from two weeks ago, will call him Bob as he doesn't like having his picture taken or using his real name in print. So I sat down for a quick chat with him and the young lady he was sporting, and one thing led to another, and there we were making a run at 5 for 100 pesos Coronas. Guess that meant another night in Tulum.

Now Bob from Boston, is quite a character, is a big Bruins fan and surprisingly well versed in hockey tradition and history. He liked my Toronto Maple Leaf joke about " what won't you find hanging on the wall at the Air Canada Center? A coloured picture of the last Toronto Stanley Cup win." Three weeks ago he was looking for a job, found one, then quit because they asked him to do a lot of "accounting", and he was no good at math. He loves Mexico and wants to live here, and find a Mexican wife. That lead to a discussion on how attractive the women are in this part of the world. I mentioned in Belize that the women averaged out some where between pretty and beautiful, and that 1 in 5 was simply stunning. He nodded that it was not quite that good in Mexico with only 2 in 10 stunning. I understood the math issue at that point. It was an enjoyable afternoon with Bob, we said our goodbyes and good luck on our respective quests, and I headed back to check in at Chilam.

Supper was at Don Cafeto, another dandy, and I decided to step outside the taco box, and ordered grilled chicken. Before the main course they bought out a bowl of pickled veggies and hot peppers, and two sauces, as he said " this is the hot one, and the other is the really hot one". Neither was as hot as the first pepper I bit into. Holy crap, smoke was flying out of my nose and it took five minutes to start breathing normal again. Couldn't even taste the chicken when it got there. Will I ever learn? I sat there reading Dracula, which incidentally Is quite an enjoyable read, and sipped a few Sol. Once the band started, it was time to leave as mariachi music is a bit tedious after a few songs. So I headed off to El Capitans to continue sipping and reading.

Found out an interesting tid bit while here. One thing I have noticed on this and the previous visit, was that you could order a Sol, or a Corona, in any restaurant, but could not get both. The owner of El Capitans told me that Corona pays for her liquor license, so that they serve only products Corona distributes. So the game is on, Corona vs Sol.

The bar was busy and hopping, and after a few minutes I was joined at the table by another couple. Let's call them Brad and Angelina. They were formerly from BC, and just got title to their property in Tulum (LOL...as I am writing this the bus driver just pulled over to the side of the highway and headed for the bushes. Don't think he's getting a coffee) and plan to start building next week. They came to Tulum first nine years ago because of the nude beach, and being they were nudists, it made for a good fit. After seven years vacationing to get an all round tan, they moved here two years ago. Nice people, and Brad had some great advice to depart on the bar business as he bought a fixer upper fifteen years ago, before turning it into a success and ultimately selling it. We were joined by a friend of theirs , formerly of Vermont, who now called Tulum home.

Another great unexpected night on the road. Finished it by buying my bus and water taxi tickets for the next day, and here I am riding the coach in comfort listening to I wonderful tunes. Will be in San Pedro by 5.















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